2007 Smoking Loon Merlot, $6

A Great-Tasting Wine for the Price

I've bought most of the wines that I've sampled over the past couple of months on recommendation from wine books and friends, and I've rarely been disappointed. With this one, however, I have to be honest...I bought it at Walmart out of sheer curiosity, mainly due to its unique name and eye-catching label. Now I'll be the first to acknowledge that you can't judge a wine by its bottle, yada yada; BUT, let's face it--we've all done it at some point. And it's no accident that wineries pour tons of money into marketing their wines--they know that with a striking label and a unique name, they're bound to make countless sales on novelty factor alone.

Nonetheless, I found myself scanning the local Walmart's (rather limited) wine selection with a somewhat-more-trained eye, trying to make an "educated" decision as to which wine to try next. However, as the generic, neutral colored + cursive text + picture of a vineyard labels started to run together, I found my eyes drawn to the Smoking Loon's bold red and gold label, playing right into the wine marketing industry's plan to conquer the wine world through appearances alone. Thus is the route by which I ended up pouring myself a glass of Merlot (the first I've formally tasted) this weekend.

This brick red, medium-bodied wine gave off aromas of spicy, earthy oak, black pepper, red berries, and a hint of leather. On the palate, there were more of the same, along with a touch of milk chocolate and plum. It had nice tannins, was easy drinking, and had a respectable finish for a wine in this price range.

Overall, I was impressed by how pleasing this wine was. It had a surprisingly well-rounded flavor complex and a superb balance. Perfect on its own, it also has enough body to withstand a meaty main dish and is food-friendly enough to pair with cheese and crackers. A true crowd pleaser, I don't see how anyone could not like this wine.

My Grade: +++